Crema Trekkers: Exploring Finca Alma, Panama
- 7 Mar 2018
Crema Chats with Roberto Brenes from Finca Alma, Panama
PANAMA COFFEE BEANS
Coffee beans grown on Finca Alma are from the varietals Caturra and Catuai, at an altitude of approximately 1,650m above sea level and produced using a washed process.
Caturra is a natural mutation of the Bourbon varietal, originally found in Caturra, Brazil. It grows well at higher altitudes and produces a larger yield due to the fact that is short with a thick core, and plenty of secondary branches. Another reason for its higher yield rate is that the tree is naturally disease resistant. The higher altitudes produce better quality, but production rate lowers. The quality of the Caturra increases with altitude, but can lower the production.
Catuai is another high yielding varietal that is a cross plant between the Mundo Novo and Caturra varietals. It’s another short plant with mainly primary branches that is disease resistant and is suitable for heavy weather environments.
Although the high altitude and environmental conditions means a more limited supply of coffee beans, the result is a highly complex coffee that is well balanced in flavour, aroma and body. The quality of Brenes’ coffee is exceptional and has won several national and international awards.
Tasting Notes: Well balanced, yet complex coffee with notes of brown sugar, cocoa and raisins when hot. As it cools hints of citrus, green apple and grapes start to develop. This medium acidity and delicate-bodied coffee finishes clean and sweet.
AUROMAR S.A. FINCA ALMA – PANAMA
Panama, officially known as the Republic of Panama, is located on the isthmus between Central and South America, with the Caribbean Sea and North Pacific Ocean on either side of it. Much like the country’s neighbours, Costa Rica and Colombia, Panama is home to some incredible coffee. The Auromar S.A. farm, Finca Alma, is located in the highlands of Piedra La Candela, approximately 2km from the Costa Rican border, located in the North West corner of the Chiriquí. This small, privately owned and operated farm has been run by Roberto Brenes and his family since 2006. They are dedicated to the production of high quality Geishas on Finca Auromar (named after Roberto’s daughter Aurora and his granddaughter Mar) and other SHB coffees on Finca Alma.
The farm is focused on sustainable farming practices and is dedicated to preserving as much of the natural flora and fauna as possible, with approximately half their property remaining untouched highland tropical forest. The estate includes over 30 hectares, with 14.5 hectares making up the farming area and the other 16 hectares is the preserved forest, parts of which were painstakingly reforested with native flora when he took over to create a balanced self-sustaining micro-climate on the farm. Shade is provided by endemic species of trees and high-altitude Hass avocado trees, creating a highly stable micro-climate offering very little swings from day heat to night chill.
Due to the altitude, the harvest begins in late December and ends in mid-March, with the cherries benefiting from the drop in humidity during the seasonal change between December and January, and the dry summer that runs through to mid-April. The result is a limited-supply of highly complex beans in each harvest.
Part of the farms sustainability efforts is focused on their workers and associates. Most of the workers on Auromar come from vulnerable ethnic groups, who lack material and social resources, and the Brenes-Eleta family provide them with modern hygienic housing, educational opportunities and facilities, supported plantation infrastructure, and many standards in place to assure safety, efficiency and well-being.
THE GREEN BEAN PROCESS
The Panama Finca Alma single origin is processed with a natural washing process. All the coffee is processed/milled at a place called Auromar by Café de Eleta, a state of the art coffee plant mill which includes a modern lab for cupping and hand selection of the best coffees.
The washed process relies on every stage of the growing, harvest and fermentation process being right, as the flavour is totally reliant on the bean having absorbed enough nutrients and sugars while growing.
The process begins by de-pulping the coffee cherries, leaving the mucilage intact for fermentation. The fermentation process can take anywhere between 1-4 days, giving the bacteria present in the fermentation tank time to break down the mucilage which is then ‘washed’ off at the end of the fermentation period. Once the mucilage has been removed the coffee is carefully sun-dried and then the parchment layer is taken off using a dry milling or hulling method, then packaged and stored.
FINCA ALMA – AWARDS & CERTIFICATIONS
AWARDS
-2013 – 1ST Prize – Geisha Ironman Washed, Best of Panama Competition
-2013 – ‘Rarest of the Rare’- Geisha from Panama, Starbucks Reserve
-2014 – The Coffee Review, Top 30 Coffees of 2014 - Camilina Geisha Natural
-2016 – 1st Prize – Camilina Geisha Natural, Best of Panama Competition
CERTIFICATIONS
Auromar S.A. does not include any certifications, instead it invests in environmental preservation on its farm lands; uses sustainable production practices; advocates against child labour; provides housing, educational facilities and opportunities for workers and their families; and hosts social and sporting activities for employees.
As a corporate entity in Panama, they are committed to reducing their environmental impact, preserving the maximum amount of flora and fauna within their control by preserving pristine rainforest and using sustainable practices, and support higher standards of living and quality of life for their workers and their workers’ families.
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